Origin Contemporary Craft Fair 2011

Lindsay Taylor

Origin is one of the most prestigious contemporary craft shows in the UK. Supported by The Crafts Council, it used to be known as the Chelsea Craft Fair, then travelled around before last year finding a new home as part of the London Design Festival held inside Old Spitalfields Market. This used to be a space where on Sunday mornings you could browse handmade arts and crafts (my sister had a stall here many years back) but these days Spitalfields is much more built up with a smaller market and plenty of chain eateries. Yet right in the middle there's a huge expanse that was converted into a craft event with over 200 of the UK's finest designers showcasing their talents.

Getting a stall here is the hard bit. It's the show everyone wants to be at but most don't make the grade...if you like handmade couture craft, it's the place to visit and shop at.

Katty Janneh Millinery

This year I was extremely happy to see that my old hat making tutor Katty Janneh made the grade and was showcasing her beautiful collection of handmade wedding fascinators and headwear. I attended Katty's class at Lewisham Community College back in 2006. We worked inside a tiny hut, but despite it being a cheap course, held at a local centre, the facilities were fantastic and I made two magnificent felt creations for winter and a bright pink fascinator.

Inside the show

The space was pretty impressive and I'm told it's the largest Origin there's been so far. I could certainly detect a difference. When I visited the Chelsea Fair some years ago, exhibitors had small stands and the type of craft on show was extremely 'professional looking' reflecting traditional disciplines like glass and ceramics. I returned to its new name of Origin in 2009 when it was held at Somerset House, along with the camera crew of the BBC show I took part in called Mastercrafts. We were shown around by my weaving tutor Margo Selby who is a regular exhibitor, to get an idea of what weaving and other professional crafts are like in the real world. At the time it was overwhelming (I also had a diva fit because I was extremely tired and hungry.....it was 5pm and I needed tea and chocolate having had a stupidly early start, long journey and lunch hours ago...so I refused to speak on camera until they got me a Mars bar!)

Anyway back to Origin...some of the same exhibitors were still here two years on but what struck me was the fair is no longer anything like its old Chelsea guise. The focus and meaning of craft has changed in contemporary culture and also at the event. Alongside the classical disciplines of metalwork, woodwork and textiles were 'handmade' crafts using more contemporary materials like paper and plastic. Birds seemed to be an (overly) popular theme and there was so much jewellery; precious and non-precious. 

A small part of me felt that the standards had dropped. It's no longer the finest example of 'craft' but a showcase of handmade things. At the same time it's good that the show is no longer as 'snobbish' that newer designers and disciplines are welcomed. But it has got me thinking alot about a project I'm working on called The Shape of Things where we are trying to answer the question 'What Is Craft?' It's certainly something that is fluid and constantly changing.

Every exhibitor had a uniqueness but some I liked more than others and so I've selected my favourites to showcase here. First up I was amazed that knitting books Best in Show (the dog and cat versions) had a whole display. I reviewed the dog book and while back and the cat one was recently featured in the Guardian. Pictured is one of the authors.

The books were on sale alongside the stars that feature inside.

Dogs Are Everywhere!

I wanted them all!

Abigail Brown

Keeping on an animal tip, as I mentioned there were many birds on display but the ones that stood out the most where the incredibly beautiful, colourful fabric birds made by Abigail Brown. They were all stunning and made from cotton fabrics. If I had lots and lots of money I would commission her to make me a whole avery.

Danielle Gori-Montanelli

Danielle's collection of felt jewellery and accessories had my name all over it but strangely this hat doesn't represent it as it's best - I find this a bit hideous, it's too much...but her necklaces and scarves were stunning.

Nawab Gebree

On a scarf tip, this one by Nawab Gebree was made for me. I have the world's most sensitive neck...I didn't used to, it happened after I suffered from a case of pneumonia a few years back. And now the slightest most gentle breeze on my neck gives me the shivers, this is why I am often found wearing scarves. This wrap is gorgeous, it doesn't look particularly comfortable but I'm sure I would look good in it!

Glass Cathedrals

Another image that doesn't do justice to the craftwork. Glass Cathedral made incredible  boxes filled with miniature people and poignant words. If I could buy just one thing from the whole exhibition it would have been one of her works, though the one I liked the most was already sold.

Adam Hussain

I have an appreciation for fused glass after I studied it at Brent Adult Education college and of all the glass designs on display Adam Hussain's work caught my eye the most. Owning a piece of art or craft should be mood enhancing and with one of these bowls around you would always feel in a good mood.

All in all it was an interesting morning, not at all what I was expecting but it's given me lots of crafty food for thought. Craft now is very different to what it was a mere 12 months ago let alone, centuries ago and I'm keen to see how it continues to develop. I still haven't had a chance to see The Power of Making at the V&A which is a major new craft exhibition (it was closed for a private function the day I was there and it's quite a trek from my flat!) but I'm sure that too will change my perception again of what British craft is all about.

Some thoughts: Liberty Book of Home Sewing

If I don't sew at least once a week I get sad. It's a bit like going to the gym. I hate the thought of getting ready and dragging myself down there but as soon as I'm working out I love it. With sewing I hate the pressures of keeping my sewing table clear and tidy and the fact the needle probably needs replacing or the tension is wrong yet once I've sat down, foot on the peddle, all my worries and stresses diminish. I'm no sewing domestic goddess though....I can sew and I know how to set up a machine and teach others how to use it but my skills are by no means advanced. My work is a bit wonky, the odd missed stitch, the wrong tension, seams that haven't been totally flattened by the iron.... but I'm happy if it joins, it doesn't need to be perfect. I prefer to be known as a Subversive Seamstress (I screen printed these patches to remind me that being a sewer doesn't mean you have to follow all the rules.)

I'm a crafter with a dedicated home studio but it's not one of those ones that could be photographed for a magazine. I don't have piles of neatly folded printed cottons in glass cabinets instead I have masses and masses of piled up fabric scraps, in all corners of the room - this one by the door, starts on the floor and each day looks more and more like a rubbish tip. But when you're so active your craft room really can't look pristine and tidy...

Then there's my stash of sewing porn. I hoard craft books to look at the pictures and get inspiration. I own hundreds of them (this is a sample of sewing ones). It's totally fantastical oogling, ooing and aahhing over beautiful things I would love to own but realistically will never have time to make. Of all craft books, sewing are among the most complicated because as much as I'm not one to follow rules if you're sewing something and the size goes wrong you've got a potential craft disaster on your hands (and believe me I've had plenty of those.) Finding a good sewing book is hard though. Some look stunning but are too complex, some look easy but the layout is unappealing and some are full of yummy gorgeous fabrics that you just know you'll never source. The newest and most anticipated sewing book of the year that is published next month is The Liberty Book of Home Sewing. Unbelievably (what took them so long????!!!!) It's the first ever sewing book from Liberty despite the fact Liberty Print fabric is legendary in fashion and textile circles.

 

The book has received lots of praise in the blogosphere, some which sound like they could be describing any craft book listing contents and projects. So there's no point in me adding to the list with an equally glowing/informative review. The reason anyone keeps a blog is to have an independent outlet to express their opinions. And one thing that is integral to my blog is being honest so even when I get sent freebies (like a review copy of this book) it's important I stay true to my principles. And the truth is this book is not what I expected.

I don't own any Liberty Print fabric (possibly because of the price tag) but my sister who is a huge fan used her stash to make me a business card holder for my birthday. Today she tweeted about how much she loves their new Hello Kitty range....yes even I was surprised they are selling that! Liberty Print is very traditional and in keeping with these values, the books feel equally traditional but in some respects a little too old fashioned for the current craft book climate. But before I go into that, here's the features I like about the book:

The fabric cover is stunning. The book is about using Liberty Print fabric so to be able to own a sample is very satisfying. It's a craft book first (I think!) to have a fabric cover and I'm sure it's going to start a trend.

The most fascinating section in the book is at the back where it lists different Liberty prints giving details of their history. I feel like it would have been a much stronger book if the focus was more about the fabric and 'how to sew' which to me is what the title suggests. But it actually has very little on 'sewing' and launches straight into projects and this is where I'm slightly disappointed. There are hundreds of sewing books on the market so it's going to be hard to maintain originality but I felt overall that the choice of projects in the book are stale......they are all things that I've seen before - cushion cover, blind, curtain, doorstop, noticeboard and even a corsage.......corsage???? They were popular a decade ago.

The books switches from 'simple' like the corsage, to the ridiculously hard. Quilting has its place in home sewing but it's a specialist craft in itself and it felt like it was just brushed over by sticking a quilt in the book.....which quite frankly is far too complicated to be dedicated just six pages.

Instructions for making projects are clear but they are illustrations. There's nothing wrong with this, but sewing is difficult and step-by-step photos on this occasion would have been stronger.

There's a small section on sewing techniques but it's soooooooo bland! Grey illustrations? Who decided on that? The part of the book that frustrates me the most however is that you're expected to make your own patterns. It wouldn't have been hard to enclose an envelope at the back which contained patterns you could cut up and start using straight away .....honestly? Does any crafter actually have the time to sit and make a pattern and then craft?

This is where I struggle with the book. It's like picking up an old vintage craft book (with its choice of fabric, projects and instructions) but at the same time it's trying to be modern. It will sell and be popular because of the Liberty brand but if it was just another sewing book with the projects it contains, it would be a flop. What would have been so much better is if there had been more original ideas, like this peacock pin cushion.

It's my favourite project in the book because it uses their iconic peacock print in a novel way. More unique ideas like this would have made it a much more original and memorable book to suit it's lovely cover. 

Before I wrote this post I toyed with whether or not I really should say what I think. Maybe because I haven't been full of praise I won't be sent any more books to review and maybe I'll upset the author (I'd be upset if I read a review on a book I'd written that said it was unoriginal and boring) but I can't stand on the fence either and say 'yeah it's great go and buy it'. Some people love Liberty Fabric and will adore the book because of that, others may want a traditional sewing book (todays craft books are possibly too 'modern' for some tastes). My advice is have a look at it. You may find something in it that appeals to you. As for my copy,  it won't be one of those craft books I keep coming back to but luckily I know someone will would appreciate it and their birthday is coming up!

The Liberty Book of Home Sewing is published October 5th 2011 by Quadrille. There is a sewing class in store demonstrating projects from the book on September 25th. 

Liberty is a luxury London department store that opened in 1875 and fabric has always been one of it's key products.

All in one shop!

Yesterday whilst on the way to  friend's afternoon tea party in Bethnal Green, East London, I saw a hand drawn sign that said 'vintage clothes', I followed it down an alleyway to discover a secret retreat which is a bit like someone's house converted into a special 'all in one' shop.
It's part art gallery (current exhibition consists of hanging fabric dolls - pictured), part vintage boutique and upstairs there's a retro 50s coffee shop with sofas and magazines for chillaxing. But that's not all!! There's also a hairdressers offering styling and cuts from £5-£15 - bargain.
A brilliant place to hang out, esp a Sunday afternoon. Exhibitions change regularly - updated on their website.


Well worth a visit, a proper 'hidden gem'! 
www.10gales.co.uk
Address: Arch 10, Gales Gardens, E2 OEJ. 

Future Craft

This week I'm heading up to Dundee to report on the Prototype 2010 Symposium. Devoted to 'Future Craft', speakers and guests will be discussing the way creative people express their ideas - in particular how they use prototyping to help 'imagine the future'. Many crafters I know always start with prototypes, but me, I like to rush into things. I get bored of testing and just want to get in there and do it. But in industry, products would never come into fruition without being designed and trialled first.

Held at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design, part of the University of Dundee, the symposium is supported by the V&A Musuem and Craft Scotland and is part of a wider Craft Festival being held in Scotland.

Topics up for discussion include architecture, fine art, music and studio crafts like jewellery, ceramics and textiles.

It's a packed schedule opening this Wednesday with a screening of craft documentary Handmade Nation followed by a packed Thursday and Friday with all sorts if experts in different fields. I haven't been to a conference/symposium type event in ages so I'm looking forward mingling with other crafty types and learning lots of new things!

I will be updating this blog with live postings from the event so don't forget to check back on Thursday and Friday to find out what's happening!